Japan Day 12 (Kyoto)

A word of warning when in Japan don't bother to try and visit on a Monday, unless you like closed signed. Most attractions and museums are closed.

On arriving in Kyoto and heading to the old imperial place we found it closed on Monday. We took a walk around the gardens, its gigantic.

Next we took the subway to one of the many Shrines. It looked a lot like a templet with the addition of the huge gate. 

There was also an incredible Japanese garden, it was outstanding especially with all the Cherry blossom, trees water. It was really something special.

Walking around Kyoto we found it a quite and attractive city. Full of shrines. 

We headed back to Osaka early, it would be our last night here and the trip is nearly over. Tomorrow we head by to Tokyo and our last night at J Hoppers. I feel like we only scratches the surface so far there is so much more to see and learn we are already talking about organising another trip here.

It was still early but with all the cultural places closes we ended up wondering around the shops. Then enjoyed another pizza talking about the day and the holiday.

Remarking on the time travelling on the railways seems the Japanese ride trains are so organised yet somehow so chaotic.

Japan Day 11 (Hiroshima)

Taking a 1:30 minute journey on the Shinkansen to Hiroshima. Being further south we were hoping for better weather and compared to Osaka it was.

We arrived to find rather than a subway there are a confusing series of trains, you pay when you get off which caught us a bit off guard.

To memorialise the dropping of the atomic bomb on Hiroshima is a memorial park which contains the impact site the so called bomb dome. This twisted structure was directly hit by the blast but the energy traveled outwards destroying everything else yet leaving leaving this relic in it place. The park is incredibly peaceful so seeing the bomb dome up close was particularly chilling. Anything combustable was incinerated leaving only the skeletal structure behind.

We spent a couple of hours wondering the park, visting some of the many monuments and memorials there.

Emerging from the park past the baseball stadium where people were playing a game. We walked to the Hiroshima Jo grounds walking over the moat we passed a Kendo tournament in process. We stopped to watching in fascination.

Hiroshima castle was like much of the city flattened or burned following the bomb and rebuild post war.

I was stopped at one point where a Japanese man asked me if I were an American, and if I understood what had happened here. Fortunately as a Brit he let me pass.

The mood was a bit sombre on the way back to the hostel, we had a quiet evening and pizza from the place next to the hostel.

A tree which survived the bomb

Hiroshima Jo

Kendo 

Japan Day 10 (Hikone)

We felt tired after all the walking around Kobe so had a lie in cuddling in bed before heading out.

Today we headed to Hikone to see the castle there. It was one of the few castle stops survive unaffected by the war and is mostly original construction. We took the Shinkansen to Miabara then changed trains to Hikone. Hikone city is on the shores of Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan.

We followed the crowds of people which led us first to a temple so we had a Quick Look around then headed to the castle on the top of the hill. Constructed in the 17th century Hikone castle is a good example of the style and gives suburbs views out from its high vantage point. 

Like Osaka the castle is best viewed from outside inside it was crowd and cramped build for people in a different age. The grounds were well worth spending some time in though we enjoyed the woods.

I grabbed a fried squid from a stand in the grounds and we met the mascot a cute rabbet with a horned helmet. 

Next we stumbled upon a garden in all its Zen glory it was very beautiful. It was starting to grow cold and dark so we left Hikone heading for Kyoto.

Arriving in Kyoto late, we managed to grab a map a from the tourist information place. It had all the local subway and tourist places marked. Kasia fancied a pizza so we found an Italian restaurant on the 10th floor of a shopping centre connected to the railway station. 

The food was really good (if a little expensive) and we got a great view of Kyoto.

The station complex itself is a marvel of steel and glass. Saint lead up from the ground to the top. It had been a long day so we headed to our hostel for a snooze.

Japan Day 9 (Osaka Castle and Kobe)

Finally we reached the part of the trip where neither of us had clean clothes to wear fortunately the hostel had some laundry facilities. Afterwards we grabbed a breakfast at a nearby store then hopped on the train to Osaka castle. The weather was much better today.

Osaka castle grounds are a lovely the castle itself like many in Japan is a reconstruction the original having been destroyed in the war. It's tourist central with a lot of food halls and convenience stands. The outside of the castle is rather magnificent the inside is a little bit more like a hotel.

It was full of exhibits and stories which were interesting unfortunately a lot of the English translations were not well done. I came away a little disappointed.

After the castle we took the Shinkansen to Kobe. I sent to a card back home to my parents. We wondered around and found one of the best examples of a Japanese Garden of the whole trip. We were also fortunate that it was very quiet we had the place nearly to ourselves.  

Kobe is a small city it took only 40 minutes to cross from the garden through China town to the port area. The town was very pretty and well kept which was a marked difference to Osaka. 

Next we attempted to visit the memorial grandees getting quite lost in the process. So lost in fact that a local girl asked if we were lost and did we need any help, certainly we did. Her name was Aki and she was so kind walking with use chatting about Kobe.

The memorial gardens were for the 1995 earthquake which had a bad impact on the city. We walked around, its seems to be a place for couple as we saw several cuddling up on secluded benches. I really enjoyed Kobe but we had to leave on the train back to our hostel in Osaka.

Japan Day 9 (Osaka)

We awoke late again and went out to see that Bay Area. It was a cold grey day and Osaka was proving to be less full on than Tokyo. It isn't as vibrant here everything seems a bit cheaper dirtier and less exciting. 

The bay proved difficult to get to, we attempted to walk but got lost on the anonymous streets finally finding ourselves back where we started so decided to break for lunch before continuing. We eat at the complex, Japans is full of complexes with department stores and restaurants spanning several floors usually with pedestrian art and underground walkways to the station or subway.

There was a hotel with a sky view resultant which we tried to get a view but only one window had a view.

Defeated we took the railway out past universal studios to get a view of baseball sports island. We made it to the end of the line it felt like the end of the earth. We couldn't find where to cross and it started raining so we headed back. Taking the subway which was not covered by the JR Rail pass to the bay where the Maritime museum was. It was lovely here it even stopped raining so we had a great view.

Heading back two stops we found a park and the Osaka port, though the rain came back. We had planned to go to the castle but the rain put us off, we headed to the aquarium.

Despite the rain we walked to the Aquarium to save the subway fare. It turned out to be a bit stupid as it was further away than we expected.

The aquarium was fantastic spiralling down around a huge tank sectioned into different areas. Beginning as sea level you descend down. Passing through the ring of fire and the pacific. There was even a whale shark in the central tank.

Behind the aquarium was a museum we decided to pass on as it looked a little dull after the wonders of the sea. Instead we found a 9th floor restaurant which was too expensive and had a lovely view.

Returning to the centre we browsed the shops a little then went to Starbucks for a coffee, and to make a plan to get out of Osaka!

Japan Day 7

The end of the road for our stay at Ryokan Fuji. It had been a nice home for our stay in Tokyo, as we checked out the owner gave us some souvenir chopsticks.

We planned to head to Tokyo proper but the weather was still bad so we mooched around Koiwa finding a park and a shopping centre that we had previously missed.

We took the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Osaka. I have never seen such an organised train. On arrival with 15 minutes an army of pink suited cleaners jumped on board to clean and swap the seats around. Leaving 5 minutes to get on board the train leaving exactly on schedule. The journey to Osaka took 3 hours, flying past Japanese towns.

Arriving in Osaka we found it even more confusing than Tokyo. The subway signs were mostly in Kanji, so it was difficult to find our hostel in Fukushima. After some searching we finally found the J-Hoppers Osaka Central Guesthouse. It was a bit basic and small, very disappointing in comparison to the Ryokan. Even the view from the fourth floor was only of other buildings.

In the afternoon we walked around the shops eat dinner in a Japanese India restaurant, I had a pizza naan! We decided to try and get an aerial view of the city however not as many of these seemed to exist as Tokyo. Eventually the lonely planet guide lead us to the rather crazy sky garden. This was a twin tower with a bridge / observation deck running in between. The views were really good unfortunately it had begun to rain heavily so 3we didn't stay too long.

Below the sky garden was a love. themed area! There were people getting married and doing wedding shoots.

We had a bit more of a walk round then headed for home.

Japan Day 6

Rain and wind battered us from the moment we stepped out of the Ryokan. Today we had planned to go to Kanubura but the weather forbade this so instead we decided to go and see the bar from "Lost in translation" then head to a photographic museum. 

Taking the tram to Shinjuku attempted a quick round of the shops (I still needed a coat) it was to windy even to use the umbrella mine nearly snapped when I tried.

Riding the Toca line we made the walk to the Park Hyatt hotel battling the wind and cold. The hotel is part of a commercial building occupying floors 37-52 with the bar and restaurant at the top. Taking the lift to the lobby we walked past the rather grand dining hall and lounge to another lift which went to the top restaurant bar "New York". Unfortunately at this point we were greeted by a rather zealous concierge who informed us that the bar would not be open until 5pm and no we were not allow to go see the view.

The nearest subway station was located in the opera house complex with some shops and restaurants. After all the battles with the elements and hotel staff were a little tired and hungry. Finding a nice looking Japanese restaurant in the basement. Unfortunately after having some language barriers ordering they gave us the food to take away. With the bad weather that posed a bit of an issue, as all the places outside were soaking. The inside space is all corporate and we weren't allowed to eat! After failing to find somewhere  to sit we headed to the museum defeated.

Located in a "Garden" complex near to where the Yebisu beer museum.  Finally we could grab a bite to eat. I had seafood noodles and Kasia grabbed a pizza. Unfortunately they had set an early closing time because of the weather so we only had 35 minutes to whip around. There was an exhibition of surrealist photographs including some famous artists including Man Ray and Andre Kertesz. It was a really good exhibition Kasia really enjoyed it being somewhat a fan of surrealist art.

It had been a bit of a crappy day with the weather so to cheer ourselves up we headed back to Ginza up to the top of the Denska building which unlike the Hyatt don't mind about visitors who come for the view.

The wind (which at one point had been strong enough to stop at least one and delay several trains) had finally died down, the rain along with it. So we took the opportunity to walk from Ginza to Tokyo station. We stopped for a coffee en route just to people watch everybody in the Tokyo evening. You might think in a Starbucks you could be in any city of the world, but these scene was unruly Japanese.

Taking the train back to Koiwa we bought some drinks and had the food we bought earlier. It was actually pretty nice breaded chicken beansprouts rice and shrimp.

It had been an up and down day but we ended it on a high, happy.

Free umbrellas

We woke up both feeling unwell, it was a struggle to get out of bed. When we eventually made it to leave the Ryokan the manage ran out and said "Do you have umbrella", I did not so he said, "Today is very rainy here take these" and handed us too umbrellas what a nice fellow!

As it was raining we appreciated how many of the walkways in Koiwa (and Tokyo in general) are covered. Pretty sure they could not do this in the UK as they would be immediately vandalised. 

We headed to Ginza, it turned out that museums are shut on Mondays so we decided to go shopping. The first stop was the Sony centre. The home of Sony has a whole building dedicated to the TV's stereos and other electronics produced by the Sony corporation. They had an amazing TV hooked unto blu ray looked stunning. I bought myself a pair of noise cancelling headphones in the hope that I'll be able to hear some music on the flight home.

Exiting Sony we walked around two buildings with restraints on the 42nd floor, then with a. viewing platform on the 46/47th flloor. There were spectacular views over the city. We decided to splash out and eat there, however we had missed lunch as it was 2pm so we decided to grab a drink and return later.

Ginza is one of the most expensive and exclusive shopping areas in the world. Think Kensington in London or The Champ-Elysees in Paris. There were a lot of awesome clothes. I had borrowed a bag from Ian but the zipper on it broke so I got myself a little "man-bag" to cart around my bits and pieces. It looks great in red leather. K found a wonderful top in the sale but decided it was still a bit too pricy so after a lot of thought put it back.

Dinner was held at the Oregon diner on the 41st floor sat next to the window looking out onto Tokyo below. The food was excellent, life doesn't get much better than this.

Day 5 in Japan Ginza

 Woke up both feeling unwell, it was a struggle to get out of bed.

As I was putting on my shoes to leave the Ryokan the owner ran out exclaiming, "Do you have an umbrella?", "Nope" I responded. "Today is very rainy here have these" and handed us two umbrellas. What a really nice fellow.

As it was raining we appreciated Koiwa covered pavements. The walkways actually had roofs with complete lighting for the evening. I don't know how long something like that would last in Manchester. Its like the number of vending machines out on the street, they would be vandalised back home.

We headed first to Ginza. The art gallery and museums don't open on Monday so we decided to go and check out the shops. First stop was the Sony Building. The Sony building is part museum part showcase of the various offering of the Sony Corporation. From TV's too Stereos and Computers. As a self confessed geek this was very exciting to see. There was an amazing TV setup playing from blu-ray which looked amazing.

I bought myself a pair of noise cancelling headphones from the shop. Hopefully this will enable me to listen to music on the flight home over the drone of the engines.

Following the geek fest we walked around enjoying the cityscape eventually finding two large buildings with sky restaurants 42 in the Shoa, 46/47 in the Durai. We went up for a look at the view from both so got some magnificent views of the city. We decided to eat there but by the time we finished viewing it was already past 2 so they were closed. We made a reservation for later.

Ginza is one of the most expensive parts of Tokyo home to major brands, labels and upmarket stores. It is certainly an interesting place to walk around. Lots of clothes and accessories. I had borrowed a bag off Ian but the zipper broke so I treated myself to a man bag to carts my bits and pieces around int. It looks great in red leather. I was a bit worried it might make me seem camp but Kasia said it looked great. Kasia found a beautiful top in the sale but it was still close to £200 which on balance seemed a bit too much so we put it back. 

For dinner we went to the Oregon diner not he 41st floor, sat next to the window looking out across Tokyo eating grommet food life doesn't really get much better!

Japan day 4 Imperial Gardens and Mori building

Finally made it to the Imperial East Gardens on the 3rd attempt. Walked over from Tokyo station to the gardens. They are really nice but quite reserved.

Afterwards we gave in an bought subway cards as the train stations are not always near the places we wanted to visit. 1000 Yen for the Tokyo metro excluding the Toie lines (which is a separate subway system because Tokyo is so massive it needs more than one underground system!).

After the gardens we went for a walk around visiting the Mori are museum. Grabbing a great view of Tokyo at night and eating some rice balls.

Tokyo Skyline

Rice balls

Tokyo international forum

We woke up late after forgetting to set the alarm. I'd slept for 14 hours which is the longest I have slept in years, at least it cleared my jet lag headache.

We attempted to visit the Imperial Palace again, but while walking from the metro we noticed the international forum.

An amazing building in steel and glass, rising majestically from the street. The design is an oval shape with a huge expanse of atrium surrounded by a walkway rising around the edge.

We made it to the gardens at 3pm and there were closing at 4pm, there is a 45 minute stroll to the entrance so we gave up on the palace and instead headed to Asakusa. 

Our tickets were only for the railway not the subway so we had a long walk from the garden to the station then from the Ueno station to Asakusa. It was a pleasant stroll though, Asakusa is a bit less full on that Shinjuko. There were a lot of nice shops and restaurants. We stopped for dinner in one of the Japanese restaurants. I had the breaded squid and green tea. It was another point and choose affair. 

After the dinner we wondered around and found a shrine. Like the Baddest shrines in Shanghai outside there was a large market. Kasia bought a fortune cokie, she will have good fortune. The light was failing and it was getting chilly so we headed back tot eh train station and Koiwa. We sat in the Ryokan chatting and enjoying the evening.

Tokyo

Tokyo Tower

Breakfast was fun. We walked into a Japanese diner near to the Ryokan. They did not speak English and my Japanese is not great so it ended up being a point and choose affair.

I took a bento box with rice pork some sort of tofu and beansprouts. We weren't sure how to pay so I looked up the eating etiquette in the lonely planet guide and it turned out we had broken all the rules, oops.

We took the train into Tokyo centre, walked around the Imperial Gardens then strolled from grand to garden in the direction of Tokyo tower.

Near to the tower we found some steps that we followed down, finding a wonderful garden at the bottom.

After that we went out to the Bay Area which is mostly commercial but you get a good view of the skyline. Next stop was Ikiburi, then finally the evening in Shinjuku. A wild place!

Arrival in Japan

Ryokan Fugi

We arrived in Tokyo. Wow that was a long flight, I managed to have a sleep and watch 2 films, Kite Runner and I am Legend. We nearly fell asleep on the train out to Koiwa where our traditional Ryokan was located. 

It's quite overwhelming getting across Tokyo for a Westerner, its so colourful and bright. The scene from Lost in Transalation is about right the senses are assaulted, the sights the sounds and smells.

Tatami mat floor and low table

The Ryokan Fugi is a small lodging house with a. traditional Japanese room, and bath.

Ueno park cherry blossom

We managed to have a round of the Cherry Blossom in Ueno it was late in the day but it was very beautiful. Many people were picnicking under the trees enjoying the outside.

Paranoid Android

I woke up really early this morning, 6am. It was quiet strange given I stayed up late last night coughing and sputtering and full of a cold.

Sleep wouldn't return so I sat awake and read "On the Road (Penguin Essentials) ", in fact I got through about half the book as dawn broke on the world outside. Its an amazing read the story really moves along wrapping you up in the beat generation world of Sal Paradise and Dean Moriarty as they live out their crazy existence across America.

I would highly recommend this book, its hard to describe its got so many interesting narratives and characters but it draws you in so that you just want to see how it all plays out

New Soul

I am full of a cold. Yesterday was a difficult one for me, I sat through work my bones aching and flu filled it was difficult making it through work. I had arranged to go for some dinner with Nick and Ian.

Ian had to pul out as he had only just returned from London. Phil and Bruce were both out though. Bruce having just returned from a tour of work in Belfast.

We decided to go for a drink first as the Pizza express was full when we arrived. Enjoyed a pint in the Rectory while the crowds cleared, then feeling lazy we rode in Bruces car closer to Pizza express, in fairness it was pouring down.

I had, a mozarrelle and tomoato starter, and a pizza called Etna. It was a chilli and ham affair, very strongly flavoured on a thin crust base. I really enjoyed it. We all swapped slices around and the ham and chicken pizza Nick ordered was by far the best of the bunch.
After the food Nick made tracks while Bruce Phil and I went to the coach and four fora a few more drinks.

Diamond Hoo Ha Man

Back to work today, you would think after 4 days off I would be feeling refreshed but in fact quiet the opposite I felt sluggish. I managed just about to fix a several bugs and make inroads into some new data changes we needed though.
I was going to go to the gym after work but when Dad picked me up (I still don't have my car back, tomorrow always tomorrow) I chickened out. Which was a real shame as Kasia told me I have put on weight, very depressing. I suppose I have had a lot of meals out and not enough exercise recently. Two Indian meals over Easter was extreme overkill but being invited out by two separate sets of friend both of which I want catch up with and I do love Indian food. I love meeting up with friends too even though I mostly get drunk I love meeting people hearing their stories.
I received my Japan rail pass in the post this morning, it pretty exciting all I have to to now is get my travel money and pack. The only slightly unfortunate thing about that is that the exchange rate is currently terrible. The pound might be strong against the US Dollar but against the Euro and Yen its running at a huge discount. Oh well its very difficult to predict these trends, I am really excited about the trip I cant wait to go wondering around Tokyo taking in the sights.

Scary World Theory

Call me a glutton, but somehow I ended up getting talked into going out for another Indian meal last night. Endo arranged for himself, Jo, Martin, Charlotte, Adam, Steph, Phil and I to have a meal at La Quila Handforth.
Martin was on good form telling us all about the Delorean (he even took me for a ride in it, it sounds great!).
After the meal we headed for a few drinks at the Bulls Head, pictures here We were getting merry and talking about the time Martin accidentally threw a milkshake over his car. To celebrate this fact Phil poured wax onto Endo's leg.
After closing time we went back to Martins house. He didn't really invite us, I think partly because He still hasn't finished his living room. I guess he had other things to spend his money and time on...
I was very drunk and probably chatted incoherently a lot. I woke up this morning feeling like death, spent most of the day feeling sorry for myself. I went to watch a film this evening, we watched the Bank Job. Based on the real events the film focuses on a robbery of a London bank to recover incriminating photographs of a royal, I quiet enjoyed it.

Delorian

 
 
Martin Has bought himself a Delorian!

Seven Spices

After a rather dull day I had a very interesting evening. Hooking up with Nick, Ian, Phil and Gilly we headed out to the new(ish) Indian seven spices in Cheadle Hulme. The place is attempting to be an upmarket Indian restaurant. They have excellent decor and the food was a cut above the normal.
Poppadoms were scarce they server a kind of salt and pepper Poppadoms, not just the usual deep fried affair. They tasted great but there wasn't really enough to go round for 7 hungry people.
I started with Sheek Kebabs, which were excellently prepared, just about the right level of flavor. I swapped half for Phil's Afghan Tikka, I wish I had ordered his dish. The chicken was succulent and tender the preparation superbly flavoured.
My main course was akin to a Jalfrezi, chicken tikka with a green chilli onion an pepper sauce.
The drink service was pretty good the Polish girl serving us regularly asked us how we were doing. The food service wasn't quiet so hot, we had to wait for some time for our order to be taken and as I guess everything was cooked to order the waiting time was fairly long. The portion sizes were good all the food arrived server in deceptively sized copper pots.
Overall the food and surrounding were top notch, in fact some of the best I have tasted. The service was good in places but it took a good while to actually eat anything. The bill came to about £27 a head pretty expensive for Indian, and pushed up by the high cost of the drinks which due to the wait we ended up drinking quite a few of. I would say for connoisseurs is an excellent choice for people wanting a traditional Indian its a bit overprices and definitely not fast food.
After the meal we headed to the John Millington for a drink, then wen on to Bramhall for a couple of drinks at Graze. I was so full I found drinking a chore and got a lift back with Nick at one.

An end has a start

I am so lazy today, I have sat here for about 2 hours trying to psych up the energy to get dress and get to the gym.
I have really done much the holiday weekend either. Yesterday I fixed up the shed roof, the extreme winds had torn off the felt, fortunately we had a roll in the shed.
After that Phil came over to help me set up the new server, we got about 10 minutes into it when Martina turned up. She is going on a trip to the south west today. I must have bored her to death watching us play with the computers.
In the evening I went round to Phil's House to watch films and drink beer, it was nice to relax the cycle home was a bit chilly though. We watched John Rambo which was incredibly graphic even for Rambo. I quiet enjoyed it though I wasn't sure of some of the messages.
Tonight I am going for a meal with Jo, Holly, Phil, Ian, Nick and Sarah. We are planning to sample the new restaurant call the Seven Spices in Cheadle Hulme.
That said I better get to the gym!

Neko Rahmen

I have been watching Neko Ramen a Japanese animation about a cat running a noodle shop, its pretty good and available for free via bit torrent on Azureus Vuze.

The Cure

I am sure most people at some point get the feeling that they are merely pawns in some sort of great game, to which we dont really even understand the rules. I often feel that way, and every so often I see something whihc captures it, this is one of those things. It is a clip from Zeitgeist, the Movie To be fair its the sort of documentry film making which blends fact with clever filmmaking to labour a point sometimes bending things wildly out of their original context. Still a very interesting take especially given the current liquidity crisis in which some of the big banks have been scooping up rivals at exceptional discounts.